Now fitted out for racing 'Stan' replaces our elderly Shetland. Which has been with us for number of years and has served as well. But its time to move-on, easier access, good all round visibility, better anchor-handling and decent shelter from wind, rain and even the sun!
We are still working on these 'instructions' for its use and set method of working may be subject of change.
1. Collect the ignition keys, killcord and petrol can from the petrol store. Go out to the boat.
2. Fit the petrol can into the fuel line in the stern left locker.
3. With key in the ignition, locate the red battery isolation switch in the port after locker and turn it to show a green segment. Check that you have power by trial operating an auxiliary or light.
4. LOWER THE ENGINE. Turn engine on, check water coolant is coming out. Note, there is no red light on this engine. You will have to use the chock lever if the engine is cold.
5. With the engine on tick-over go to the bow and release the carabiner that attaches the anchor buoys to the boat.
6. You are now free to ride to the pontoon. This is a very powerful engine. Make sure your crew know you are going forward and for them to hold on. YOU MUST USE THE KILL CORD! Approach the powerboat pontoon from the windward side, stay parallel to the pontoon and let the wind blow you on to it. Secure the boat and we suggest you keep the engine running.
Remove the bird scarer and lie it down on the shore. Please do ensure it is looked after. So far, it seems to work well when out at anchor. Get your timer and fit it to the boat. The boat has been set up to operate either of the two race timers. The timers can be placed in brackets within or without the cabin. Leads are long enough to stretch to the two positions without disconnecting and losing data. The socket for the timer plug is under the air horn panel. Don’t forget to turn the plug to lock it once it is fully inserted. The twin air horns are powered via a small aluminium panel just inside the door. Spare fuses are labelled. The horns (on the cabin roof) should be inclined downward slightly to prevent water ingress.
Press-button switches for the horns are provided within and without the cabin.
It is a sight-line for the Duty Officer and shows you the start/finish line to the 'pin-end'. It is also flown to show the Race Officer is on station.
The yellow pole is too long to fit in the cabin space so is stored (with the flag rolled) under the beam.
A beam is located, normally on the port side, with sockets to accept flags on aluminium poles. One flag/pole combination, coloured yellow, is longer than the others and forms the boat end of the start or finish line. This can be positioned in any of the sockets to suit the conditions and preferences of the duty crew. The finish position for this pole need not be the same as the start position . However; it must not be moved during the start sequence or the finishing process.
The usual flags required for race management are pre-prepared on poles and stored within the cabin. These should be selected and placed so as to be to hand ready for the start sequence. To assist in identification the lower end of each pole has identifying colours and/or marks which give a clue as to the flag on the far end.
There are a couple of spare poles, and a new set of flags to fly on them, for special events.
All the poles are plugged at both ends and have been confirmed to be buoyant. If any pole loses a plug please record this in the Bosun’s log.
Remember that sailors take official timing from raise and drop of the flags and could theoretically protest if flags do not move smartly up and down at the correct time.
There are toggles on elastic to stop the board swivelling round on a windy day
Stop the boat head to wind and upwind of the desired final position. Depress to electric winch switch within the cabin. Move slowly astern and lower the anchor so that chain does not build in a heap on top of it. Control switch is rightside of cabin. The rough guide is to pay out a chain length three times the water depth. The maximum reservoir depth is 10 m.
ALWAYS HAVE THE ENGINE RUNNING WHEN USING THE ANCHOR WINCH
When the chain is paid out take a transit of two objects in line across the wind to check that the anchor is not dragging. If in doubt pay out more chain.
The anchor chain has a green/yellow wrap of tape which enters the winch drum precisely when the anchor is fully raised. Operators - Please don't winch in beyond this point else there is a risk of damage to the winch.
Just "raise" from the anchored position. The winch has plenty of torque to just pluck the anchor off the ground, especially if it is working half full (smaller diameter, higher torque). However; the engine should be running on tick-over throughout the process to offset the battery drain and take control once the boat starts to drift.
After recovery swill the chain to remove the black silt. A bucket and brush is provided.
First go to the pontoon and pick up the bird scarer. DO NOT FORGET THIS. It will be impossible for the Honwave to bring it to you!
Approach the two mooring buoys on the starboard side - pick them up using a boat hook - walk to the bow with the buoys - attach it to the short length of chain and carabiner - ensure that nothing is rubbing against the gelcoat - let go!
Lift the engine (You might find this easier to do from the Honwave that has come to collect you - there is a rocker switch on the starboard side of the engine). Turn the isolator battery switch to off. Take the keys out.
It is best to turn off the master battery switch at close of play in case a light or instrument has been left on.
Locate the red battery isolation switch in the port after-locker and turn it to show a green segment. Check that you have power by trial-operating an auxiliary or light.Fit the timer and connect to lead. Set up the course board. Use bungees to stop it spinning round in the wind. The usual flags required for race management are pre-prepared on poles and stored within the cabin